ART r US Epoxy resin comes with a bubble release agent in it, anti-yellowing, self levelling resin.
for the epoxy to work properly you need to make sure the work environment is on a 24c-30c all the time (even during the curing process)

Bubbles comes when you mix your epoxy, with simple steps you can get rid of bubbles , after you mix ART r US epoxy resin leave it for 5-10 minutes to set and you will see all the bubbles that formed during your mixing is coming up to the surface and it will pop by itself check the video below  

Dear Customers please check below out cut off time for posting Items:

Monday to Thursday any time before 1pm will be posted on the same day

any orders after 1pm will be posted next Business day.

for express Postage must be before 11AM

as the cut off time for Express at Australia Post where we lodge is 2pm.

any express orders after 1pm will be posted on the next business day.

We do not process any orders on Friday Saturday Sunday. we hope you understand we are a Family Business and we would like to keep the weekends to spend with our kids 🙂

NB: Due to COVID-19 please expect delay in delivery time

 

When you are working on an epoxy resin project, it is essential to make sure that you Epoxy cures in the appropriate amount of time. We are here to make sure that you have all the information you need when it comes to epoxy resin cure.

JUST USE HEAT

It is actually possible to make epoxy resin dry faster, just by using heat. You can work in a warmer room or you can use heat lamps to encourage the resin to cure faster. This option can come very handy. Let’s say you have a big trade show that is starting tomorrow and you still need to squeeze in one last minute piece. With the simple addition of heat, your ART R US EPOXY RESIN is now ready to go!

Increase the temperature to 75-85ºF / 24-30ºC  in the room where your piece is curing. Cure time is affected by temperature: warmer temperatures facilitate curing and colder temperatures slow curing. It also helps to use a heater or heat lamp.

also another quicker method is to use the 3D heat Bed if you have one.

For Deep casting Epoxy Resin:

Curing Time at(25ºC) 12 hours ; Polish after 24-48 hours

Curing Time at (40ºC) 8 hours

Curing time at (90ºC) 4 Hours ( Not Recommended )

The resin reaches 95% of its full cure within 24 hours, and 100% of its cure within 72 hours. After the 24 hour mark, a piece can be moved from its curing position, hung on a wall, and it can have a second coat applied if necessary. The difference in hardness between the 24 hour and 72 mark is typically only an important factor for artists wanting to pack and ship their work, or if they’re making coasters, bar tops, or other heavy duty projects which require a less flexible cure.  For coated paintings, drawings, mixed media pieces, and sculpture, for example, the marginal difference in hardness from day one to day three is typically negligible.

ART r US Epoxy Resin Sydney Local Store.

AVOID THE FOLLOWING WITH EPOXY RESIN CURE

Don’t add more hardener to the mixture thinking this will increase cure time – it won’t. It will simply throw off the delicate 1:1 mixing ratio, causing your resin to not cure at all and remain sticky indefinitely.

Don’t replace the hardener with another brand of hardener that advertises a quicker cure time. Every paired resin and hardener within a kit work together as a system and cannot be reliably interchanged.

Don’t add any extra agents to the mixture with the intention of promoting a quicker cure.

Resin is not designed to accommodate any such additions.

Phosphorescent pigment

PHOSPHORESCENT PIGMENTS. The classic “glow in the dark” or phosphorescent pigments consist of very fine crystals of zinc sulfide doped with copper (ZnS:Cu). The glow is due to the unique properties of crystalline zinc sulfide. Copper is added to the zinc sulfide as an activator.

( not cosmetic Grade )

Suitable for use with most clear / opaque mediums such as clear paint, epoxy resin, glass, wax, plastic. ink, glues, silicone, nail polish and screen printing ink etc

Glow in the dark powder can be charged (excited) indefinitely by most forms of natural or artificial light and last many years.

For most applications between 15-30% powder to medium will produce the best results.  

Do not grind / mill the glow powder as this will damage its crystalline structure and prevent it from working.

Always use against a white background as this will enhance and enrich the resultant glow, where as a dark background will reduce the glow and impede the powders’ effectiveness.

Glow powder does not dissolve into any medium it is simply suspended or allowed to settle as a glowing layer. 

Glow powder has a high specific gravity so it will usually settle relatively quickly unless the viscosity  / thickness of the medium is high enough to keep it suspended. 

The powder can cope with high temperatures (600 C) and so is suitable for use in glass kilns.

Glow in the Dark powders are very durable and long-lived making them suitable for use outdoors as well is indoors.

Ratio of mixing Mica powder with Gum Arabic (Gum Powder)

for every 4 grams of Mica powder add 1 gram of Gum Arabic (Gum Powder) mix both first then add 1 Table Spoon of Water the mix all together,

NEON Powder will only glow under a UV Light (Black Light )

Glow in the Dark Powder will glow at night without the use of a UV light

our MICA POWDER is cosmetic grade and yes it’s LIP SAFE 🙂

it is accepted that resin can take 5-10% of its weight in additives ie dyes micas etc It’s also said that 1 gallon of epoxy can accept 3-4 ounces of mica Following that theory 1 gallon is 3.78l x 1.16 to get the weight = 4.38 kg 1 ounce is 28.3grams x 3 or 4 = 84.9 grams or 113.2 per gallon/3.78l To take it a step further 8 gallons = 30 litres approx So you’d use 679.2 grams up 905.6 grams for 8 gallons I’d err on the side of caution and add less to ensure it doesn’t affect curing etc